All behaviour is communication

This subject is about another big, huge, challenging mind shift we go through when we move across from traditional (aversive/ forceful) adversarial style of horse training, handling and interactions. When we change over to a different, more positive, empathetic and co-operative way of being with and training our horses via force free approaches such as Positive Reinforcement training.

When we start giving our horse choices and a voice, we need to start listening to their voice and that is not an easy thing to do. Especially when your whole life, you learnt to ignore and punish that voice and when everyone around you says that it’s dangerous, it’s rude, it’s disrespectful and it’s stupid to listen to what your horse is telling you.

Your horse needs to listen and obey you, right? or maybe?

They are not our slaves, our minions, they are not sentient beings we keep in our back paddock, at our beck and call.

If they need to listen, pay attention and respect what we say, I think that should go both ways, don’t you?

But here is the dilemma.

If my mare bares her teeth, or my gelding swishes his tail and stomps his foot when he doesn’t like something I’ve done, what do I do? What happens now?

There’s a saying in the dog training world “never punish the growl”.

This is the moment where we decide, are we listening or are we only ordering and telling?

This is also the moment where we decide, do we get hurt because we are the boss and we ignore their communication and cause them to escalate? Or do we listen and change our behaviour, and eventually our horses tune down their communication because they are listened to and therefore value and trust us and most importantly, they are safe to be around?

If you choose obedience over a cooperative reciprocal relationship, how does “trust”, or a “bond” or a “relationship” or “consent” develop? It doesn’t, how can it?

Really, what kind of relationship or interaction is not listening, but just ordering? When it all goes the human’s way and the horse has no voice and no choice, they do what the human wants because …… why? They have to? It seems to me that it’s not a healthy or mutual or reciprocal relationship. It seems like we are more like a master, or a dictator, than a friend or partner.

The problem I see when we dictate and don’t listen, demand but don’t empathise, is that we create a lopsided relationship and also, an UNSAFE relationship.

If someone you don’t like or respect, someone who treats you disrespectfully and cruelly, who you didn’t like or caused you to feel unsafe, if they for example, fell down. Would you either step over them because you didn’t want to harm them, or not worry if you stomped on them or gave them the boot?

All behaviour is communication, what do we do with that communication?

Generosity

I whipped up a quick video and voiceover to try to illustrate a point I’d like to make that is super important!

I’ve talked about generosity before and I’d like to talk about the importance of it again. I realise “generosity” is a concept and can be extremely subjective. So let me explain.

You are training a horse or donkey who might be reluctant to interact, offer behaviour or perform cued behaviours and you struggle because you suspect fear, discomfort, pain, worry, etc. You know this because you are observing escape and avoidance type behaviours. If that’s the case, you are not only training behaviour, you are Systematically Desensitising and Counter Conditioning various things in the process as well. Sometimes the focus might be more on Systematic Desensitisation and Counter Conditioning, or more on shaping behaviour and it can even switch back and forth quite fluidly.

It’s important to remember that both Operant and Classical Conditioning are always happening at the same time, but sometimes we may be MORE generous because we are focusing more on the Classical than Operant side of things. This means we might be more generous with food because we need to focus more on how the equine FEELS (Counter Conditioning), rather than what they are doing or offering, in the moment.

What that can look like is that we are seemingly feeding for nothing. It could even look like we are reinforcing things we don’t want. It could also look like we are reinforcing problematic behaviour, for example, you ask for a hoof lift and your horse tries to bite you – I would still feed them, because not feeding them will be worse for them and you. I would say to them, I’m so sorry, I made a mistake, I asked too much, I missed some steps, I missed some signs and ask their forgiveness. Remembering also, you cannot reinforce fear or any emotion, so if the horse behaves in a way because they are scared or worried, you cannot reinforce that and in fact, not feeding often makes things worse and unwanted behaviour can escalate. Obviously if that happened, you would need to go away and review what you are doing and perhaps get more experienced help.

For whatever reason on that day, Seymour was not lifting his foot on cue, even though it was trained, but also taking into account he’s still in the process of feeling ok about the whole thing. I can assume and imagine all kinds of things about what he’s feeling and thinking, but all I have to observe is his behaviour. As you can see, I gave it a good try and he was not cooperating, so I continued to be generous and flipped it around to being more of a Counter Conditioning session and didn’t worry if he didn’t lift his hoof. I wanted him to feel safe, not feel pressured, coerced or frustrated, to enjoy the training and to look forward to the next session with enthusiasm, which potentially may not happen if I had withheld food for non-performance of behaviour.

Finally, please don’t ever make the equine wait for food, please don’t ever withhold food for non-performance or for “calm” or “relaxation”. Withholding and making them wait makes things worse, not better.

Paddock Paradise systems

Fantastic words that encapsulate the approach needed, from PP fb group member Emma:

“my biggest learn . . . . is making sure I embrace flexibility, observation, and keep my mind open to the changing needs of the horses and the land!

What I initially implement is just a framework to build on and change as needed.”

– – – – – – – – – – –

What I recommend when starting out and this is simply a guide, don’t set anything permanent up that you don’t have to in the beginning. Set up temporary fencing, step in posts and solar or battery charging and then look at where the water runs, where it drains well and where it doesn’t, what type of soil, grass, plants (weeds), trees you have, where it’s windy and where it’s sheltered, where does the cold wind predominantly come from, where do the horses prefer to sleep, roll (can be separate places) and where they run, where can you plant more trees, put in drains, utilise existing fencing, etc.

Then set up water and hay stations as far away from each other as possible. Where is there access to power or will you need to utilise solar, do you need to build shelter and you can then capture water in a tank. General rule of thumb is a width of one meter per horse plus an extra meter for turning. The more narrow, the more movement and less grass. The wider it is, the more grazing and lingering will happen. Always allow more room in the corners, especially if you have horses who like to gallop and avoid dead ends if not all horses get along 100% of the time.

Do you have machinery and/or a system for collecting, storing, composting and distributing manure and for carting hay?

Let paddocks rest, slash regularly and observe safe grazing times of day and year if your horses do tolerate grass. Consider cross grazing or cutting hay if you have enough acreage or if you’re keen and the area is small, you can cut it by hand as a treat for your horses.

Set up something temporary and just keep changing it and tweaking it til you’re happy. Experiment and let your horses and donkeys tell you what they like and what they don’t like. During that time set aside funds for possible mud control/surfacing and drainage options.

Try to ensure that there is various kinds of enrichment in your Paddock Paradise. Equine enrichment means adding or changing their environment with different substrates and terrain, social interaction with their own species and also other species, sensory experiences such as essential oils and herbs, providing puzzles and toys to fulfil their need for mental and physical stimulation and provide opportunities for contrafreeloading as well as offering a variety of foods to browse, taste and explore. Contrafreeloading means that many species choose to ‘work’ for their food, rather than have it just served up to them. Giving them opportunities to enjoy species specific behaviour will ultimately contribute to their overall health and wellbeing.

Remember that the basic ethos of a Paddock Paradise is to attempt to replicate the conditions that horses evolved to live in over the millennia.

“Just as nature provided what is best for the wild horse, Paddock Paradise is an attempt to replicate those essential factors that naturally create physical, mental and emotional well-being.”

(Jaime Jackson)

What is Shaping in Positive Reinforcement (clicker) training?

What is Shaping in Positive Reinforcement (clicker) training?

“Shaping consists of taking a very small tendency in the right direction and shifting it, one small step at a time, toward an ultimate goal. The laboratory jargon for the process is “successive approximation”.”

(Karen Pryor, Don’t Shoot the Dog)

Karen Pryor developed 10 tips/guidelines for shaping, called The Ten Laws of Shaping. The original ‘laws’ are explained in her book, Don’t Shoot the Dog and she later revised and altered these guidelines to reflect a more up to date understanding of the science and principles of Shaping, including removing varying reinforcement.

Shaping is a a complex skill and takes a great deal of practice, good timing, mechanical skills, excellent observation skills and GENEROSITY, which I’ve mentioned before. The more generous you are are marking and reinforcing the smallest approximation or behaviour the horse offers, the faster the learning and movement towards the goal behaviour. Hold out for bigger and better behaviour and the horse will get confused and frustrated and stop trying or will try other things that they have been reinforced for in the past (reinforcement history)

Following is the 10 principles, paraphrased by Ken Ramirez:-

PRYOR’S MODERN PRINCIPLES OF SHAPING

1. Be prepared before you start

2. Raise criteria in small increments

3. Train one criteria at a time

4. Keep training sessions continuous

5. If it doesn’t work, change the plan

6. Relax old criteria when introducing new criteria

7. Plan ahead

8. Don’t stop a session gratuitously

9. Regress when behaviour deteriorates

10. End on a positive note

Karen Pryor’s updated Modern Principles of Shaping:-

https://clickertraining.com/files/the-modern-principles-of-shaping-SF-edits.pdf?fbclid=IwAR2ZEkKf-rlw1we57nmddDA_xBkOfdW-A6Nx9qfwNwAkksJXEfnE7mWy8Is

If you’re not sure what Shaping looks like, this is a video example of Shaping featuring myself and Grace, this was her first time interacting with a ball:-

Grace’s first time interacting with a ball

A horse who feels safe, is a safe horse to be around

𝓐 𝓱𝓸𝓻𝓼𝓮 𝔀𝓱𝓸 𝓯𝓮𝓮𝓵𝓼 𝓼𝓪𝓯𝓮,

𝓲𝓼 𝓪 𝓼𝓪𝓯𝓮 𝓱𝓸𝓻𝓼𝓮 𝓽𝓸 𝓫𝓮 𝓪𝓻𝓸𝓾𝓷𝓭

I say this a lot.

🐞

But how do we know when they feel safe and when they don’t?

How do we help them to feel safe?

How do we make them safe horses?

How do we feel safe?

🐞

Train and prepare them with Positive Reinforcement training and Systematic Desensitisation and Counter Conditioning.

Train and condition in baby steps.

Teach them that all new things equals good things.

Manage their environment carefully.

Be very observant and analytical.

Learn their body language, stress, calming, appeasement and displacement behaviours.

Avoid over exposing or over facing them.

Avoid thinking “they’ll get used to it” or “this will build resilience” most likely it will to do the opposite.

Be consistent.

Be predictable.

Be reliable.

Be their friend. 💞

Seymour’s Progress – May 2021

Yippee! What a fantastic day!

It was trimming day and Seymour finally got his back hoof trimmed for the first time! (This is a donkey who came to me very frightened, head shy and hadn’t been trimmed in years!). For non donkey folk – donkeys are very good at kicking and can even kick sideways and forwards!

All my patience, clicker training, desensitisation and counter conditioning to pretty much everything – being touched, bending over his feet, voluntarily offering to lift his hoof, having strange scary people touch him and ask him to lift his hoof, like my wonderful trimmer Tanya French. A big thank you to Tanya, I couldn’t have done it without you on Seymour’s team! She listened to me and to Seymour and she trusted that I’d done the training to be safe to bend down and ask Seymour to give her his back hoof (and not kick her head in!) We got it done and I am so thrilled and Seymour is so much more comfortable now, he was very sore on that foot.

His fronts got trimmed too and he just gets better and better every time with them.

It’s been such a long road with him and he is really starting to bloom. He even let me give him a really good scratch and massage all along his back and he relaxed into it and let his head droop all the way down to the ground. That’s probably another first for him, to really let himself enjoy my touch.

I think he’s turned a corner in his trust of people, thanks to Tanya and myself showing him that people can help him feel better. He feels so much better with 3 beautifully trimmed little donkey feet.

Onward to that last tootsie and he’ll be like a brand new donkey! 🧡

Progress at 24 May 2021 !

Separation Anxiety?

Buddy Sour

Herd Bound

Destination Addiction

What do all these terms mean?

Separation Anxiety is one of the most common problems that horse owners face. It is a natural behaviour for horses – millions of years of evolution have taught them to be very scared if they find themselves alone and to rectify it immediately. Being alone is how an animal gets attacked easily by a predator and being alone means you are in danger and vulnerable to attack because you don’t have the safety of numbers to protect you. A horse cannot rest or sleep or eat properly alone and their goal will always be to re-join their herd as soon as possible. When you observe a horse experiencing separation anxiety, there is usually lots of running, pacing and weaving as they work hard to return to the safety of the herd.

The first experience of separation anxiety for domestic horses is usually at weaning. Many abrupt and sudden weaning practices cause mare and foal much distress and fear. Experiencing this kind of fear and trauma in their formative years, can affect a horse for the rest of their life and make them more susceptible to severe separation anxiety later in life.

Many training approaches that deal with the behaviours associated with separation anxiety focus on Punishment. Popular approaches are ‘making the wrong thing hard and the right thing easy’, ‘working’ the horse near other horses, circling and causing discomfort, fear and pain when the horse gravitates towards other horses. Keeping horses living in isolation to prevent them bonding or forming relationships with other equines is another popular approach.

The problem with these approaches is that they are working against the nature of the horse – against their basic instincts and biology that have been developed and successful for the horse, over millions of years.

Instead, we can work with the horse and teach them! Oftentimes we have to undo a lot of fear and trauma that they have already experienced, so we need to be patient to begin with. But as we help the horse to learn and never trigger their fear response, we will be rewarded with a horse who’s able to leave their friends or have their friends leave them without fear and stress.

Humane force free approaches to separation anxiety utilise Desensitisation and Counter Conditioning.

In order to do this, it’s important to note the point your horse starts to go over threshold ie shows subtle fear responses, or hypervigilance and hyperarousal and plan your training to start well before this point.

Training literally involves very small steps and we pair each step with food to create a good feeling/association with leaving the herd.

I found yet another fantastic blog from Eileen Anderson that discusses fear and how Desensitisation and Counter Conditioning can help you overcome it in yourself, your dog and this also applies to your horse. There’s some great examples of how small and detailed the exposures/steps need to be in a DS/CC program, to give you an idea.

You can find her blog here:-

Finally, if anyone gives you advice that seems to work against the horse or tries to change the horse’s feeling of wanting to be with other horses via some kind of discomfort, then smile and thank them and walk away.

Do you have a horse or donkey that is really “in your face”?

Do you have a horse or donkey that is really “in your face”? For example, are they always first to greet, even hunt you down, sniff, nibble, even push on you? But by the same token, they don’t seem comfortable when you try to touch them, they nip and guard themselves and there’s something about them that makes you feel not quite comfortable or safe?

I’ve got a donkey called Dorothy and at first, she seemed like the most friendly “in your face” asking for scratches type of donkey.

But I’ve learnt otherwise since that first impression.

I’ve learnt that she doesn’t like or trust people and a lot of her behaviour seems to be learnt and reinforced through what I imagine was a lack of choices and control. For example, if she can’t remove herself from people and situations, perhaps her behaviour can make the people go away??

When she first came to me, she seemed reasonably friendly, once she got over her initial fear. She would solicit scratches, but try to touch her outside of her soliciting and it was a big kicky “no!”

I think we need to be careful that we don’t just assume that if a horse or donkey comes to us, that they necessarily like us or want attention or to be touched. I think this concept is similar to the post I did earlier about being able to train a horse to move towards something they don’t want to go near, by using Negative Reinforcement. Moving towards something gives them control or an attempt to control the removal of an aversive stimulus (in this case us). I feel an animal can find ways to make things go away, by moving towards them, pushing, nibbling and generally being aversive and annoying.

The problem is that people think that a horse moving towards them is wanting to be with them and engage with them. I’ve even seen a video of one of those cowboy trainers saying a mouthy horse wants to engage, so we should engage! That’s a pretty big assumption and interpretation of behaviour. But what I saw happen and what supports what I suspect, is that the “engaging” involved smothering the horse’s muzzle and face with touches and rubbing and guess what happened? The horse “engaged” ie. mouthed and tried to bite the human less or stopped altogether, as that was the plan as an antidote for a mouthy horse. But hold on, if a horse wanted to engage and we engaged with them, wouldn’t the behaviour increase ie. be positively reinforced and therefore increase? But it didn’t, it lessened or stopped, therefore the horse’s mouthy, in your face behaviour was punished.

So next time you think a horse wants to engage, is friendly and doesn’t carry any fear, worry, anxiety or distrust of humans, think again. Just because they move towards us, try to interact with us, doesn’t mean they like us, it could well mean they want us to go away and that’s how they try to do it. It most likely works with their equine friends, but us humans tend to think that it’s all about us and our horses always love us and want to be around us and that’s not always the case.

Check out gorgeous Dorothy, she’s very vocal because she loves to train, BUT she still has reservations about a lot of the things I want to do, like trimming her back hooves. I’m giving her the time she needs, because I realise that although she seems joyful, there is an unhappy history to overcome as well.

Click for Action and Feed for Position

I think it’s important to show real life training, rather than carefully edited, scripted and captioned training. I also have to live up to my own encouragement to everyone to be brave learners, be prepared to make mistakes and that ‘the animal is always right, so how can behaviour be wrong’. I think various trainers have said different iterations of this message, from Skinner to Bailey to Ramirez.

There isn’t really mistakes in this video, but it may look like it to some people. I’d like to explain and if you watch til the end you’ll see a rather funny blooper I’ve left in there.

Firstly, note there are 3 points in this post and video, the first is regarding Mercedes’ behaviour, the second is about being mindful of how you deliver your reinforcers, look after your body and your horse’s body and straightness and also how you deliver the reinforcer affects whether your horse is more or less ‘in your face’ and ‘muggy’. Thirdly, I wanted to talk about and demonstrate Feeding for Position and that learning happens after the click.

In regards to Mercedes behaviour, let me say that horses need to move, they are designed to move and domestic horses don’t move enough generally. Many domestic horses are often overweight or prone to becoming overweight, understandably. Therefore when I started R+ training, I was focused on movement and exercise, not standing around and giving a lot of food. This hopefully explains what’s happening with Mercedes’ behaviour in the video. She has a long and strong Positive Reinforcement history with movement, with doing things. She doesn’t do standing still very well in certain contexts. She’s very happy to stand still for certain things, but overall my training is about movement and I like that and I think it’s good for my horses. But if I want to do explanatory videos like these, you can see where this becomes problematic if you watch Mercedes’ behaviour.

The first point I’m demonstrating in the video is about HOW you feed. Looking after your back and your horse’s back requires some attention to detail and practice. Think about being ambidextrous and feed from both sides, both hands and in a way that is cleaner, smoother and easier for both you and the horse. You’ll notice how much straighter Mercedes is when I feed from my left hand on her left side and also how I’m not twisting my back. These small details can make a big difference.

This leads into what I also wanted to demonstrate and talk about and that’s the subject of Feeding for Position and more precisely, Bob Bailey’s famous words “The Click doesn’t end Behaviour, learning keeps going ie. Click for Action, Feed for Position.”

I often explain it as these glowing dots in space that the horse can see, they are places where there is R+ history, where the horse has been fed, reinforced for a behaviour specifically. The horse, any animal, gravitates to places of value where they’ve been repeatedly fed. They can also be super specific about the place, the body part, etc. You’ll see that in my video, I think it took about 2-3 trials and Mercedes kept her head at the ‘red dot’ ie. the place where reinforcement was last delivered repeatedly, down low and then up high.

This is exactly why it doesn’t worry me if she’s a fidget head and can’t stand still (such as in the video), because it would take very little for her to learn that standing still has value and she will quit asking, “when are we going to move??”.

Feeding for Position can be a very useful tool in your force free tool box. I feel that is where the art comes into the science of what we do. Some examples might be when we are teaching a behaviour, but then also using the food delivery to ask the horse to move away from you or to go somewhere else to get the reinforcement. This can be a way to teach a ‘go to a station/hoof target’ behaviour, where you would feed on the station, but then start to offer food away from the station, so that they learn to leave and go there and eventually on cue. Another example might be in Reverse Round Pen training, in order to encourage movement and really hammer home the message of voluntary movement. We would click for behaviour ie. more speed or a nice head or body shape, you might then offer the food/reinforcer ahead of the horse. Although you clicked for behaviour, the horse has to walk (another behaviour) to acquire the reinforcer.

Can you think of any times you’ve clicked for action and fed for position?

I hope you enjoy the video and I’ve given you some food for thought.